Day 20-27 | 600km Whangarei to Auckland

The past week has consisted of so diverse experiences that it is almost impossible to write it down in a single post – but let’s try!

The morning we greeted the gorgeous Whangarei, we kept our promise and went to look for Peter (the sailor from the car ferry) and his boat in the marine basin. We were lucky to find him, his family and his boat, the Arcadian, that had seen many seas.

He offered us and our Israeli friend, Noam, a cup of coffee on the boat deck where we chatted about how life can take you to so different directions.

He shared his story and told how first others may question your lifestyle but at the end the ones who follow their heart will surely be happy. That was an inspiring morning – not everyone thinks that going on a tramp like this is the ‘thing’ to do on their to-do list.

From Whangarei we continued our trail to Marsden Point to do some more beach tramp. On the beach, we walked pass a huge gas tanker and chatted to a friendly fisherman.

Once we got to a stream crossing, we were happy to see our fellow hiker, Ines, taking an afternoon break on the beach. We had not seen other hikers for several days and we were delighted (and reliefed) to be reminded we are not tramping alone. As it was Ines’ last night before taking a work break from the trail, we had a stopover at Uretiti campsite and had a lovely evening together.

We went swimming in the ocean, cooked together and chatted to fellow campers who were amazed by our hike. They provided us with hot water and cookies. That night we had our first possum visit to the tent going through our trash and taking its share of our leftover dinner.

The following morning we hiked together to a small village Waipu where we greeted Ines and continued to a short forestry section. That day hiking was not as inspiring and euphoric as it sometimes can get – the road walking made us tired, bored and the sun was hitting us from all sides. Perhaps also our first hot summer day.

Despite a few ride offers, we sticked to the inch-for-inch philosophy and continued walking. It’s part of the journey to be struck by boredom and have not so good hiking days too. As usual we meet and chat to many locals, this time a kiwi busy at a building site. He picked up the South African accent and asked if we are in NZ to learn to play rugby. Even on your lowest days the kiwi humour can give some light.

We approached the end of a long hiking day and wanted to finish off the first forest section after the beach. A local who gave us water told us about a good camping spot on the peak of the hills. We eventually found it with a spectacular 360 panoramic view over the coast and forest. Later we had some more company to share the view with, Jenny (Kiwi) and Debbie (Germany) came past which made the evening even better.

Langsview track provided us with magnificent sunrise.

One of the most amazing things on the trail is that you never know what you wake up to. The morning provided us with a magical sunrise over the ocean which motivated us to stroll down towards the Mangawhai Heads. The trail went through a sheep farm that led us to the magnificent Mangawhai cliffs and onto the beach. Mangawhai reminded us a lot of Whangarei, lots of bays, islands in the distance, holiday homes and sailing boats. Even though we were tempted to stay the night we decided to carry on, well first we made a pit-stop for fish and chips (probably the most traditional NZ food). On the trail eating something other than pasta, noodles or oats is such a treat.

We continued on with the trail aiming to bush camp on the beach. The dunes next to the beach were however covered with endangered birds that forced us to continue even further than originally planned. We reached the beutiful Te Arai point just in time to still take a swim before contemplating where our home will be for the night. After cooking supper on the most luxurious picnic bench (it was just a normal bench, but trail gold) we saw a hiker approaching in the distance. To all our surprise it was our Israeli friend, Noam that we had left in Whangarei a couple of days before. It was great to be with another hiker again, for the next section was not going to be easy.

At the end of the beach, ready for a swim!

Te Arai Point, close to luxury free-camping.

We started with an early morning hike aross the point and continuing on the beach to Pakiri. A long break at the end of the beach holiday park made us meet another Aussie and German hiker. Again we had a real NZ summer afternoon with the UV-index hitting the roof and burning (tanning in Hannele’s case) any exposed skin. To our surprise lied a steep climb to start the Omaha forest. It kicked our asses all the way through the forest on the same day, unfortunately keeping Noam for the night in the forest. We managed to make it out before sunset and overnight at the Manaka Outback. The next morning we got Noam just entering the next forest and found out that our Aussie friend, Dylan, slept only 4km behind us in the forest. He had made some good ground catching up to us after Paihia.

An easier forest with a couple of fake summits and a wild pig in the path made for an interesting tramping day. We got out of the forest at the Dome Cafe next to State Highway 1 with some chips and milkshakes. We met some more fellow hikers that we camped with for the night. One of the hikers was actually a runner. Curly, a kiwi ultra runner that is running the trail with the hopes to set a new FKT (Fastest Known Time) of 85 days, being unsupported. It was a great evening after 2 tough days in the muddy forests.

From there on, we hiked together on much easier terrain, mostly consisting of forestry tracks. Another highlight was a stop to a local cheese shop where we had lunch before greeting more hikers who were going to take a rest day north of Auckland. We finally reached Puhoi and decided to continue further.

Before reaching Auckland city, the trail takes you through several tremendous and magnificent pacific coastal walks. There was however one river crossing in Okura still in our way, the first “proper” crossing with hikers warning it being the deepest and most dangerous (supposedly some videos on youtube, we haven’t looked it). We managed to start early in the morning from Stillwater (a campsite that is free to TA walkers, because the owner loves what we are doing) to catch the low tide. The river seemed deep despite the low tide. With two of our friends still following we decided to head upstream to look for the best possible place to cross. Here we met a local man taking people over with a small boat, he said that it was the best spot to cross further away from the ocean and offered us a lift. Another Peter, told us about the effects that property development is having on the area with Auckland city expanding too rapidly. On the other side of the river is the latest land that is to be developed into a high density neighborhood. The community has been having fundraisers to try and fight the developers. With some success they are waiting for final judgement. A sad thing is that the Te Araroa trust has apparently been supporting this development as better paths in the area are being promised. After spending the next couple of days walking through neighborhoods we realised that muddy forest tracks are perhaps better than a sidewalk. Let’s hope the TA trust keep by their values.

Finally we could see the skyline of Auckland city and the skytower in the distance – we made it, the first 600km tramped!

We had a zero-day today and walked through the city. It feels strange to see so many people and the busy city life. Definitely not the most comfortable experience after all the bush life. For a moment we were missing those muddy forests.

However, for now we have a chance to rest, explore Auckland a bit, before hitting the trail again – where else but south! Keep well!

-H&F

Day 14-19 | 401km Paihia to Whangarei, on the Trail of Angels

On Te Araroa, one learns rather quickly the meaning of a “trail angel”. Trail angels in the tramping lingo refer to people who out of their good will assist and care for trampers, for instance by offering water, food or accommodation. We met quite a few of them over the past week!

The day we continued our hike from Paihia, it started raining hard – just when we had thought we’d been lucky with the weather! After the rainy 5km beach walk to Opua we got onto a car ferry to cross to the other side of the bay. On the ferry, we met a local sailor who had moved to New Zealand over 10 years ago after sailing his boat all the way down from San Francisco. He invited us to his boat for a beer. He and his family live in the boat in Whangarei. He even offered to take us down to Whangarei with his boat, but we said we’d stick to the track and meet again in Whangarei.

Walking up a river in Russell Forest, technical but refreshing.

On our first day towards Whangarei (a 137km section) we walked several hours up a river. The river tramp ended up being much tougher than expected – huge rocks and deep corners kept us constantly alert which was rather tiring. Despite the technical side to the river, the views were absolutely stunning and the Russell forest so gorgeous.

Once we were out of the forest, we realised it was already getting late and there was no camp spots nearby. We consulted our fellow hikers and decided to continue walking. Not long after, a bakkie with other hikers stopped next to us and told us to climb on the back. We were taken to another trail angel, Jock, who invited us to stay over. Jock used to be a dairy farmer and was now retired and enjoying his holiday house in Helena Bay. A lovely evening full of conversations and stories about NZ.

A memorable evening with hikers, at Jock the Trail Angel.

The following days we tramped next to the coast with spectacular views, overlooking dozens of islands in the horizon of the Pacific Ocean. On the beaches, we could find oysters to eat and see boats sailing in the distance. This section was very enjoyable. After a rough beginning, our feet have begun to adjust to daily walking which leaves energy to enjoy the environment more.

Cooking dinner, and camping in the forest.

Friendship on the trails, part 2. Photo: Jennifer

From Ngurugu hikers are advised to take a boat ride to cross the bay. We decided to go around instead. A lady driving a school bus offered us a ride for the detour. Strangly enough, after a couple of stops we were hiking again only to realise we were off the trail! Sun started to set and we were struggling to make sense how on earth we had gotten to where we were. A family stopped and wanted to take us to the track or go stay at their place for the night. Regardless their sincere will to help, they accidentally dropped us on a wrong trail (there are lots of nature reserves in NZ). We walked back to the main road with our tired feet, and lastly got one more family who knew where to take us. We were back on track and got to camp on their farm with the cows. That ‘easy’ tramping day had turned into a 30+km tramping adventure.

Even the day after did not end up being what we expected. A few kays in, our Maori trail friend phoned and invited us to join him to visit a special tree in New Zealand. This was something he really longed to do during his walk, even though the forest was not on the route, in fact it was on the opposite coast! Of course, we said yes to this special opportunity and took the rest of the day off for a ‘little’ detour. It was worth it – we were ashtonised by the Waipoa Forest where the oldest kauri trees still stand straight. One of the trees, Te Matua Ngahere, is one of the oldest trees with its immense trunk rooted on the ground. The Maoris call it the father of the forest. From the very beginning of this adventure, the forests have been unique and magical experiences – they conceal ancient stories. Sadly, the kauri trees are suffering greatly of kauri dieback disease which destroys their shallow roots and eventually kills the trees. Staring at the old and calm tree that had seen so much in the course of history makes you reflect on your own roots as well.

Te Matua Ngahere, the Father of the Forest.

After this magical and mysterious forest trip, we got dropped back to the trail to finish the section to Whangarei, which is a bigger town to resupply. Our friend returned back home and we already miss our trail conversations – he became like a trail father to us. We know we’ll get together again.

Washing shoes before and after forest helps protect the kauri trees.

We thought that the last part would be an easy tramp but we got in the middle of a storm. A scenic ocean beach walk was more about fighting the blowing wind and avoiding the massive waves that pushed deep in the land – not to mention the rain drops that hurt our faces. It was far from pleasant, and no wonder we didn’t see any other hikers that day.

The last forest section before Whangarei.

Once we were out of the beach, it got even worse with a forest of ups and downs, mud, steep slippery stairs (1261 of them) and furious wind on the open tops. It was exhausting and we were soaking wet despite our rain gear. After 7 hours of non-stop rain tramping, we were back on a stable road again. We thought, “God, this is the time to send someone!” Five minutes later, on a quietest of roads, a South African couple pulled over, took us to their home and provided us a shelter for a 0-day to recover before the next section.

Over the past week, we truly got to witness the hospitality and kindness of trail angels on Te Araroa. We are grateful and ready to hit the trail again!

Love,

H&F

Day 7-13 | 245km Through the Muddy Forests of Herekino, Raetea, Omahuta and Puketi

On our last day before the start of the hike we saw some tired trampers walking through Paihia. Back then it felt like a distant future but here we are – having a 0-day in Paihia with 245km under our feet.

After the 90 Mile Beach the scenery changed drastically as we entered the notorious forest. The forest section consists of four different forests and it is advised to complete it in 5-6 days. The conditions in the forest depends much on the weather – and since it being one of the wettest years that NZ has seen – we knew to expect lots of mud!

The first forest, Herekino, was only 14km in distance but estimated to take 9 hours to get through. We hit the trail early in the morning with some luck of a ride to the start of the forest. As soon as we got into the entrance of the forest, we put on our gaiters on and went on. It was amazing from the beginning! Despite the mud, it was so gorgeous and the hills brought about some broad views of the area. After the beach section, the forest felt like a technical path full of little tasks to solve with some concentration. We were on it and as soon as you hit the first mud up to your knees you stop worrying, which makes the rest of the muddy hike a lot easier.

Enjoying the view and still smiling all the way.

Right before the end of the Herekino forest, we heard a helicopter hovering around and wondered if everyone was okay. We reached the hut, Tramp Inn, where we had a beautiful view, cold shower and dry beds. When the rest of the hikers arrived, we found out that the helicopter was in fact for one of the hikers that injured herself. Luckily the injury was not too severe and she managed to get back on the track a couple of days later.

Chilling with some fellow hikers, great people!

Weather wise we had some luck for this section, with the worst rain and storm hitting us while we were staying in the Tramp Inn. The morning after staying in the hut it stopped raining and we continued with a later start to the next start of the next forest. A couple of kilometres before the next forest a fellow hiker, from Australia, mentioned that he knew someone in the valley that gave him a cider on the beach and their address a couple of days before. We managed to find their farm on the way but with no one home. We decided to take a rest on their lawn and wait for a while. The region, Takahue, lies between the Herekino and Raetea forests with a small farming community. We soon got to experience this community through their humbleness and generosity. After about 10 minutes on the lawn the farmer arrived from work. “Hey bro, you look familiar, would you like to go chase some pigs? It does mean a bit more walking for you tho.”

We laughed, and all of a sudden we were on a pig hunt in the hills with two local young men. What an experience, dogs, knives and a gun. A real local experience. They shared their life stories, and how this place had always made them happy with their families staying there for generations. Destined to become farmers and hunters.

We were not lucky with our pig hunt, and lost the farmer’s dogs on the forest chasing a pig. Let’s hope they find their way back home soon.

That night we had some fish & chips, good conversations and a good night’s rest at the home. This was a wonderful break from staying in a tent and eating pasta and rice. This was also our last chance to shower for a couple of days.

Chasing pigs in the valley. No luck this time.

The second forest, Raetea, was the toughest. There was plethora of uphills and downhills, mud, and overgrown paths. Also, we had more to walk because of staying in town (it was still worthwhile!). That day, Dylan and we (the Aussie guy) tramped 27km in total. The trail notes did not warn us that there would still be another 8km to get to a local dairy to stay in, so we hitched a ride on the tar road. A local Maori man gave us a lift with his truck, which was a good thing for our sore feet. When we told him about the pig hunt, he got very excited: “You are the first pakia (white) girl to talk about pug hunt ever! Made my day!”

At the dairy, we got other hikers again. The manager of the dairy also lets trampers sleep in an old shop next door. On the way, we have given local people lots of business tips. We told the lady running the dairy that if she built a shower in, everyone would stay after that daunting forest experience. From the dairy, we broke away from the group again as others were worried about the weather forecast in the last forest. It is advised not to enter the forest in bad conditions, and apparently not many people finish all the forest – either because of the weather or just getting fed up with it. We, however, decided to give it a try. Eventually, we got a very beautiful sunny two days (the weather in NZ changes very often). The Omahuta and Puketi forests were gorgeous; there were heaps of river crossings, walking in the river and diverse birdlife. We pushed 33km on that day and set our tent in the middle of the forest next to a river. It was quite something, to be swallowed by the thick forest that could get you lost at any time.

The local dairy we stayed at and had some amazing burgers for breakfast.

Folkers broke his hiking pole in the forest, but after fixing it was even stronger.

The following day, we woke up early and pushed ourselves out of the forest on a steep ridge. Every now and then, it felt as if the nature was trying to kill us – the branches, steep hills, and the path giving in under your feet. After Puketi forest we got into a quiet recreational area where we made a nice lunch (noodles) and took a rest. We had made it.

We tried to push through Kerikeri on the same day, but had to set our tent few kilometres before the town and stealth camp next to a field. It was very pretty way down to Kerikeri, we were hiking with sheep and cattle, got free oranges and lemon from local farmers and saw a stunning waterfall right before Kerikeri, a soft sunrise and a river flowing next to us – idyllic.

At last, we met other hikers in Kerikeri, and decided to hike with them to Paihia to have a rest day (0-day). We’ve spent a great amount of time with Kelvin, a great Maori man with a great life story. The way Maoris are connected to the Earth and nature is very unique. For some people, this hike is perhaps a challenge, but for us it is also a spiritual journey – and the more you tramp the more connected you feel to the nature and your roots. You learn to accept what is behind and yet to come, and everyone you meet on the way leave their mark on you. Gratitude – that is the feeling that grows by each day you tramp.

Now we are in Paihia, resting next to the ocean, collecting oysters and staying close to a place where the Waitangi treaty was signed in 1840 by the British and some of the Maori chiefs. Up to this day the country’s laws and policies as still based on this document. There are, however, some controversies around the translation differences between the English and Maori version of the document.

Day 1-5 | The End of 90 Mile Beach

First 100km tramped and first proper reception! Our hike started in Cape Reigna on the 1st of November as planned. Getting to the most northern point proved to be a mission of its own as we got a flat tyre while taking a 4×4 track over the dunes with our family.

Once we got to Cape Reigna, we were amazed – it is quite a sight where the Tasman Sea meets Pacific Ocean. The wind was blowing hard but luckily it was sunny and clear.

Below the some of writings at Cape Reigna that explains the history.

Catch my spirit

The white beach in the distance marks Kapo wainua – Spirits Bay. Its name comes from the ancestor Tohe some 700 years ago, when he departed from that place on a journey. Tohe was old and longed to visit his daughter far away. His people feared he might die before he returned. He said to them, “Kapohia taku wainua!” That is, if his wainua (spirit) passed that way on its final journey, his people should reach out and catch it, not let it go on.

According to Maori belief, all souls travel to Cape Reigna after death before their final journey. We have had some very interesting Maori engagements, but will get to that later – a wonderful culture and people.

From Cape Reigna, we tramped relatively easily 13km to Twilight campsite where we met other hikers who had started on that day. The first day consisted of hiking over rocks, dunes and a short beach which was already showcasing the beautiful landscape of New Zealand. Walking on the beach is quite tough on your feet and you need to be aware of the high-tide that can push all the way against the dunes. Some streams on the way provided us drinking water – however it is advised to filter it before drinking. We were not completely on our own as the 90 Mile Beach is also know as a national road where many fishermen spend their day for a catch. Many of them stopped to check if we were still alright. We also had some fish encounters on the beach, everything from a snapper to a stingray. Something you really need watch out for is the sun as it can get very hard in New Zealand.

At the first campsite, we were quite an international group from all around the world with as many reasons to be on this journey. When we were still Cape Reigna in the tough wind trying to attach the last gear into the backpacks, we asked our folks “quickly remind us why we are doing this”. They laughed and said, “We don’t know, you never told us!”

People on Te Araroa are amazing and so caring. The next two days were just too long: 30km per day and there was only beach with just a couple campsites. On the third night we had to camp in the dunes when we had realised we wouldn’t make it to the campsite with the coming high-tide and exhausted feet. We also ran out of water that night which was a rather scary experience. You really start valuing the basic things in life here without taking them for granted. Supposedly, both pain and beauty are very much part of Te Araroa – they unlock the strenght of human beings in the most beautiful environments. It is humbling.

The following morning we found out that other hikers had actually gone searching for us in the night as they were worried. You need people here too, no matter how much you long for wilderness. We have learned how important it is to share your plans with fellow hikers, even though the hikers come and go.

We made some ‘mistakes’ too. Packed way too much gear and food which has caused some extra pain, but each day we learn more and become stronger. And everyone is meant to do TA their way – that’s why we call this tramping.

Luckily, we survived the repetiveness of the beach – but at the same time it really forced us to reflect on the upcoming journey, our reasons for being here and to open the mind for the forthcoming adventure through the muddy and thick forest to the East Coast.

Today we had a day off in Ahipara and we hitch-hiked to Kaitaia to resupply and send a package home to lighten our bags. Ready to move on!

H&F